Acne Studios
A Heritage Essay

Acne StudiosThe House & Its Designers

Stockholm-born; the Scandinavian luxury house with a global aesthetic.

An Introduction

Acne Studios was founded in 1996 in Stockholm as a creative collective spanning fashion, graphic design, advertising, and film — the name an acronym for Ambition to Create Novel Expressions.

Co-founder Jonny Johansson took over fashion direction in 1997 and remains creative director today.

— Chapter One —

The House

Founded 1996.

Ambition to Create Novel Expressions.
1996

Ambition to Create Novel Expressions.

Acne Studios was founded by four Swedes in Stockholm as a creative collective covering fashion, advertising, magazines, and film. The fashion line was a small side project — 100 pairs of raw denim jeans given to friends in 1997. The jeans became a Stockholm cult product within months.

Global Scandinavian luxury.
2000s — 2010s

Global Scandinavian luxury.

Acne Studios grew through the 2000s by remaining unapologetically Scandinavian — minimal, conceptual, slightly weird — while expanding into ready-to-wear, accessories, and a magazine (Acne Paper, 2005-2014). By the 2010s it was the most globally recognised Swedish fashion brand.

Privately held at scale.
Today

Privately held at scale.

Acne Studios generates approximately €300 million in annual revenue, still privately held by its founders. The brand operates a handful of stores in major cities (Stockholm, Paris, London, NYC, Tokyo) and continues to maintain its niche, slightly-weird positioning.

— Chapter Two —

The Designers

1 era of creative direction.

Creative Director · 1997 — present

Jonny Johansson

Twenty-eight years at the design helm. Johansson's aesthetic — Scandinavian minimalism with a deliberately strange edge — has remained remarkably consistent.

Spring 2018 Ready To Wear runway look
20 looks
View runway →

Spring 2018 Ready To Wear

20 looks · Vogue Runway
Spring 2024 Ready To Wear runway look
14 looks
View runway →

Spring 2024 Ready To Wear

14 looks · Vogue Runway
Fall 2024 Ready To Wear runway look
18 looks
View runway →

Fall 2024 Ready To Wear

18 looks · Vogue Runway
— Chapter Three —

The Bags

6 icons. Each one a scene; each scene a gallery.

Distortion — Acne Studios
9 photos
View gallery →
Distortion alt view
Distortion alt view
Distortion alt view
Distortion alt view
No. 01

Distortion

2023 · Jonny Johansson

Asymmetric structured shoulder bag.

Musubi — Acne Studios
13 photos
View gallery →
Musubi alt view
Musubi alt view
Musubi alt view
Musubi alt view
No. 02

Musubi

2018 · Jonny Johansson

Knot-clasp shoulder bag inspired by Japanese gift-wrapping.

Rope — Acne Studios
3 photos
View gallery →
Rope alt view
Rope alt view
No. 03

Rope

2024 · Jonny Johansson

Bag with rope-detail handles.

Pull-Through — Acne Studios
4 photos
View gallery →
Pull-Through alt view
Pull-Through alt view
Pull-Through alt view
No. 04

Pull-Through

2020 · Jonny Johansson

Soft shoulder bag with pull-through closure.

Platt — Acne Studios
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 05

Platt

2022 · Jonny Johansson

Flat clutch with chain strap.

Top Handle — Acne Studios
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 06

Top Handle

2024 · Jonny Johansson

Structured top-handle in leather.

All Bags · Quick Index

6 at a glance.

Distortion
Distortion
2023
Musubi
Musubi
2018
Rope
Rope
2024
Pull-Through
Pull-Through
2020
Platt
Platt
2022
Top Handle
Top Handle
2024