Alexander McQueen
A Heritage Essay

Alexander McQueenThe House & Its Designers

Lee McQueen's brutal romanticism, Sarah Burton's continuation.

An Introduction

Alexander McQueen was the most provocative designer of the 1990s and 2000s — a Savile Row tailor's son from Stratford whose runway shows became performance art.

Founded in 1992 by Lee Alexander McQueen, the maison survived his suicide in 2010 through Sarah Burton, his right hand for thirteen years, who continued as creative director until 2023. Seán McGirr took over in 2024.

— Chapter One —

The House

Founded 1992.

Stratford to Savile Row.
1992

Stratford to Savile Row.

Lee Alexander McQueen was the youngest of six, the son of a London cab driver. He left school at sixteen and apprenticed himself to Anderson & Sheppard on Savile Row — the most traditional tailoring house in the world. He cut his own clothes; he reputedly stitched a swear-word into the lining of a suit destined for Prince Charles. He left Savile Row to study at Central Saint Martins, where his MA graduate collection (1992) was bought outright by the stylist Isabella Blow.

Givenchy.
1996 — 2001

Givenchy.

LVMH appointed McQueen creative director of Givenchy in 1996 — at 27, a year after Galliano. The five years at Givenchy were difficult; the maison's couture clientele was uncomfortable with his aggressive aesthetic. He used the platform to fund his own label, which by 2000 had become more important than Givenchy. He left in 2001.

Death.
2010

Death.

Lee McQueen took his own life on February 11, 2010, nine days after his mother's death. He was forty. The maison's Fall 2010 collection — which he had been working on at the time of his death — was shown posthumously in a private salon presentation. Sarah Burton, his right hand for thirteen years, was named creative director.

Sarah Burton.
2010 — 2023

Sarah Burton.

Burton spent thirteen years stewarding McQueen's legacy with quiet rigour. She designed Kate Middleton's wedding dress in 2011. She continued the maison's couture-level craft. The Heroine (2014), The Curve, the Skull Box clutch — all her era. She left in 2023 for Givenchy.

— Chapter Two —

The Designers

3 eras of creative direction.

Founder · 1992 — 2010

Lee Alexander McQueen

Eighteen years of the most theatrical, provocative, and technically virtuosic runway shows in modern fashion. Suicide in 2010.

Creative Director · 2010 — 2023

Sarah Burton

Burton stewarded the McQueen legacy for thirteen years. Royal wedding dresses (Kate Middleton 2011, Emma Stone-style coverage). The Heroine bag (2014). She left for Givenchy in 2023.

Spring 2012 Ready To Wear runway look
31 looks
View runway →

Spring 2012 Ready To Wear

31 looks · Vogue Runway
Spring 2019 Ready To Wear runway look
12 looks
View runway →

Spring 2019 Ready To Wear

12 looks · Vogue Runway
Spring 2023 Ready To Wear runway look
20 looks
View runway →

Spring 2023 Ready To Wear

20 looks · Vogue Runway
Creative Director · 2024 — present

Seán McGirr

McGirr, formerly head of menswear design at JW Anderson, took over in October 2023. His debut Fall 2024 collection drew mixed reviews — a more youth-streetwear direction than Burton's romanticism.

Fall 2024 Ready To Wear runway look
25 looks
View runway →

Fall 2024 Ready To Wear

25 looks · Vogue Runway
— Chapter Three —

The Bags

8 icons. Each one a scene; each scene a gallery.

Skull Box Clutch — Alexander McQueen
4 photos
View gallery →
Skull Box Clutch alt view
Skull Box Clutch alt view
Skull Box Clutch alt view
No. 01

Skull Box Clutch

2010s · Sarah Burton era

Hard-shell clutch with the McQueen skull motif.

Heroine — Alexander McQueen
5 photos
View gallery →
Heroine alt view
Heroine alt view
Heroine alt view
Heroine alt view
No. 02

Heroine

2014 · Sarah Burton

Structured top-handle with metallic hardware. Sarah Burton's signature bag.

The Story — Alexander McQueen
3 photos
View gallery →
The Story alt view
The Story alt view
No. 04

The Story

2020 · Sarah Burton

Asymmetric crescent with chain-link strap.

De Manta Clutch — Alexander McQueen
3 photos
View gallery →
De Manta Clutch alt view
De Manta Clutch alt view
No. 05

De Manta Clutch

2010s · Sarah Burton era

Foldover clutch with sculptural shape.

The Bow — Alexander McQueen
2 photos
View gallery →
The Bow alt view
No. 06

The Bow

2016 · Sarah Burton

Box clutch with bow detail.

Padlock — Alexander McQueen
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 07

Padlock

2018 · Sarah Burton

Padlock-clasp shoulder bag.

Solo — Alexander McQueen
3 photos
View gallery →
Solo alt view
Solo alt view
No. 08

Solo

2020 · Sarah Burton

Compact crossbody.

Knuckle Box Clutch — Alexander McQueen
4 photos
View gallery →
Knuckle Box Clutch alt view
Knuckle Box Clutch alt view
Knuckle Box Clutch alt view
No. 09

Knuckle Box Clutch

2009 · Lee McQueen

Iconic clutch with the knuckle-duster gold handle. Lee McQueen design.

All Bags · Quick Index

8 at a glance.

Skull Box Clutch
Skull Box Clutch
2010s
Heroine
Heroine
2014
The Story
The Story
2020
De Manta Clutch
De Manta Clutch
2010s
The Bow
The Bow
2016
Padlock
Padlock
2018
Solo
Solo
2020
Knuckle Box Clutch
Knuckle Box Clutch
2009