Burberry
A Heritage Essay

BurberryThe House & Its Designers

Gabardine, the trench, and the most-copied check in fashion.

An Introduction

Burberry is the rarest thing in British luxury: a brand whose central product is the same thing it sold in 1914.

Founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, a twenty-one-year-old draper from Basingstoke, the maison's invention of gabardine in 1879 — a breathable, weatherproof fabric — produced the trench coat that has now outlived three monarchs, two world wars, and a century of fashion.

— Chapter One —

The House

Founded 1856.

A draper from Basingstoke.
1856

A draper from Basingstoke.

Thomas Burberry was twenty-one when he opened a draper's shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire. He noticed that the smock-frock worn by local shepherds repelled rain because its tightly woven worsted wool had been treated with lanolin. He spent the next two decades engineering a fabric that did the same thing but lighter and more breathable. In 1879 he patented gabardine — woven tightly enough that water beaded off, ventilated enough to wear in heat. The British Army adopted it for the South African campaigns. Roald Amundsen wore it to the South Pole in 1911. Ernest Shackleton wore it on the Endurance.

The trench coat.
1914 — 1918

The trench coat.

When the War Office issued a contract for an officer's coat in 1914, Burberry's design — gabardine, double-breasted, with D-ring belt loops to hang grenades and sword from, epaulettes for rank, a storm flap for the rifle butt — became the standard. Over half a million were issued. The cut survived the war because it had been built for utility, not fashion, and the utility didn't expire. By 1924 the brand had registered the camel-and-black tartan check that lined the trench.

Christopher Bailey rebuilds the brand.
2001 — 2018

Christopher Bailey rebuilds the brand.

By the late 1990s the Burberry check had been so heavily counterfeited and so cheaply licensed (it appeared on baseball caps worn by football hooligans in the UK) that the brand was synonymous with chav culture. Christopher Bailey, a Yorkshire designer who'd worked at Donna Karan and Gucci, was hired in 2001. Over seventeen years he restored the brand's luxury credibility — through new product categories (Prorsum), the iconic 'Art of the Trench' digital campaign (2009), and runway shows that streamed live and shoppable in real-time, a then-radical idea. He stepped down in 2018.

The Italian and the Yorkshireman.
2018 — present

The Italian and the Yorkshireman.

Riccardo Tisci, hired from Givenchy in 2018, brought a darker, more conceptual aesthetic — the new TB monogram designed with Peter Saville, the Lola bag, a heavy streetwear influence. He left in 2022. Daniel Lee, formerly of Bottega Veneta, took over in late 2022 with a brief to make Burberry more recognisably British again. His Knight Bear logo, the Knight Bag, and bright primary colours have polarised critics but reframed the brand's direction for the 2020s.

— Chapter Two —

The Designers

3 eras of creative direction.

Creative Director · 2001 — 2018

Christopher Bailey

Bailey rebuilt Burberry from the inside over seventeen years. He launched Prorsum (the high-fashion line), pioneered livestreamed-and-shoppable runway shows years before the rest of the industry, and personally directed the 'Art of the Trench' digital campaign that turned customers' Instagram photos into editorial. By the time he left in 2018 the brand was once again London Fashion Week's defining house.

Spring 2010 Ready To Wear runway look
24 looks
View runway →

Spring 2010 Ready To Wear

24 looks · Vogue Runway
Fall 2015 Ready To Wear runway look
39 looks
View runway →

Fall 2015 Ready To Wear

39 looks · Vogue Runway
Chief Creative Officer · 2018 — 2022

Riccardo Tisci

Tisci arrived from Givenchy with the brief to make Burberry global-fashion again rather than British-heritage. He launched the new TB monogram (designed by Peter Saville), the Lola bag, and pulled the brand toward streetwear adjacency. Four years; he left in late 2022.

Spring 2019 Ready To Wear runway look
2 looks
View runway →

Spring 2019 Ready To Wear

2 looks · Vogue Runway
Creative Director · 2022 — present

Daniel Lee

Lee, fresh from his commercially seismic Bottega Veneta tenure, took over with a brief to make Burberry more recognisably British. His Knight Bear logo, primary-colour palette, and revived heritage scarves are still finding their commercial footing.

Spring 2024 Ready To Wear runway look
2 looks
View runway →

Spring 2024 Ready To Wear

2 looks · Vogue Runway
— Chapter Three —

The Bags

9 icons. Each one a scene; each scene a gallery.

Lola — Burberry
5 photos
View gallery →
Lola alt view
Lola alt view
Lola alt view
Lola alt view
No. 01

Lola

2021 · Riccardo Tisci

Quilted leather shoulder bag with the new TB monogram clasp. Defining bag of the Tisci era.

TB Bag — Burberry
4 photos
View gallery →
TB Bag alt view
TB Bag alt view
TB Bag alt view
No. 02

TB Bag

2019 · Riccardo Tisci

Geometric flap with the new TB monogram hardware. Multiple sizes.

Title — Burberry
5 photos
View gallery →
Title alt view
Title alt view
Title alt view
Title alt view
No. 03

Title

2017 · Christopher Bailey

Soft top-handle with metallic top frame. Bailey-era polished luxury.

Note — Burberry
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 04

Note

2020 · Riccardo Tisci

Bucket bag with drawstring closure and detachable strap.

Pocket Bag — Burberry
6 photos
View gallery →
Pocket Bag alt view
Pocket Bag alt view
Pocket Bag alt view
Pocket Bag alt view
No. 06

Pocket Bag

2019 · Riccardo Tisci

Soft slouchy shoulder bag with pocket panels.

Knight — Burberry
8 photos
View gallery →
Knight alt view
Knight alt view
Knight alt view
Knight alt view
No. 07

Knight

2023 · Daniel Lee

Curved silhouette with the Equestrian Knight hardware revived.

Banner — Burberry
3 photos
View gallery →
Banner alt view
Banner alt view
No. 08

Banner

2015 · Christopher Bailey

Classic Burberry-check tote with leather trim.

Belt Bag — Burberry
3 photos
View gallery →
Belt Bag alt view
Belt Bag alt view
No. 09

Belt Bag

2018 · Riccardo Tisci

Compact crossbody / belt bag with the Burberry check.

Macken — Burberry
5 photos
View gallery →
Macken alt view
Macken alt view
Macken alt view
Macken alt view
No. 10

Macken

2020 · Riccardo Tisci

Soft canvas-and-leather tote.

All Bags · Quick Index

9 at a glance.

Lola
Lola
2021
TB Bag
TB Bag
2019
Title
Title
2017
Note
Note
2020
Pocket Bag
Pocket Bag
2019
Knight
Knight
2023
Banner
Banner
2015
Belt Bag
Belt Bag
2018
Macken
Macken
2020