The House & Its Designers

Hermès

Paris · 1837

The saddler’s discipline, carried into everyday objects.

Hermès began with harnesses and saddlery. Its later bags retained that concern for strong construction, useful closures and materials that change with use, even as the house expanded into silk, clothing and other métiers.

13 photographs · Reviewed August 2026

Explore the history ↓
An equestrian painting by Alfred de Dreux
An equestrian painting by Alfred de Dreux© Guy Lucas de Peslouan ↗
01 / The house

The story behind the name.

1837–1880

An equestrian beginning

Thierry Hermès founded a harness workshop in Paris. The family moved the business to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in 1880, an address closely associated with the house ever since.

20th century

Beyond the saddle

As travel and daily life changed, Hermès expanded into bags, clothing and silk. The first silk carré appeared in 1937.

1930s–1956

The Kelly’s earlier life

Robert Dumas developed the bag in the 1930s. A widely circulated photograph of Grace Kelly carrying it in 1956 helped establish its lasting association with her.

1984

The Birkin

A conversation between Jane Birkin and Jean-Louis Dumas inspired a capacious handbag. Its construction and practical details tied it back to the house’s leather-working tradition.

An equestrian painting by Alfred de Dreux
An equestrian painting by Alfred de Dreux© Guy Lucas de Peslouan ↗
Thierry Hermès, the founder
Thierry Hermès, the founder© Santiago et Rottier ↗
The Faubourg Saint-Honoré address, 1880
The Faubourg Saint-Honoré address, 1880© All rights reserved ↗
Émile Hermès and his daughters
Émile Hermès and his daughters© Julie Hermès ↗
Golf accessories in a 1929 advertisement
Golf accessories in a 1929 advertisement© Draeger ↗
The Jeu des omnibus silk scarf
The Jeu des omnibus silk scarfHermès · house archive ↗
Robert Dumas at the Faubourg, 1975
Robert Dumas at the Faubourg, 1975© Eva Rokos ↗
A window designed by Leïla Menchari, 2011
A window designed by Leïla Menchari, 2011© Guillaume de Laubier ↗
Jean-Louis Dumas
Jean-Louis Dumas© Sacha van Dorssen ↗
Leather workshops at Pantin
Leather workshops at Pantin© Alfredo Piola ↗
Pierre-Alexis Dumas
Pierre-Alexis Dumas© Marianne Rosenstiehl ↗
02 / The designers

The people who shaped the house.

Selected creative chapters; dates distinguish appointments from runway debuts.

Founder

Thierry Hermès

Established the harness-making workshop.

Successive family generations

Robert Dumas and Jean-Louis Dumas

Helped develop the bags and broader creative world of the house.

Women’s ready-to-wear · 1997–2003

Martin Margiela

Brought a restrained, construction-focused approach to the wardrobe.

Women’s ready-to-wear · 2003–2010

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Explored equestrian references with wit and theatrical flair.

Women’s ready-to-wear · 2010–2014

Christophe Lemaire

Focused on supple, understated clothes.

Appointed 2014 · women’s ready-to-wear

Nadège Vanhée

Develops a modern wardrobe in dialogue with the house’s materials and craft.

03 / The bags

A vocabulary in leather and form.

A selection of the house’s designs. Resale photographs illustrate individual examples; size, finish and condition vary.

01

Birkin

A structured top-handle bag with a flap, belted straps and a turn-lock closure.

The Birkin bag
The Birkin bag© Elisa Valenzuela ↗
More designs to know
Constance
A compact shoulder bag fastened with an H-shaped clasp.
Bolide
A rounded zip-top bag with short handles and a smooth, domed profile.
Evelyne
A practical crossbody with a broad strap and perforated H panel.
Picotin
An open, bucket-shaped bag with short handles and a strap closure.
Garden Party
A roomy tote offered in canvas-and-leather and all-leather versions.
Lindy
Two handles sit at the ends of a soft, folding body.
Herbag
A canvas-and-leather bag with a structured flap and central closure.
Jypsière
A crossbody silhouette that adapts the house’s belted flap closure.
Halzan
A folding leather design that changes shape for hand, shoulder or crossbody carry.
Plume
A clean-lined rectangular zip bag with short handles.
Kelly Pochette
A small clutch-like interpretation of the Kelly, with a short leather handle.
Mini Kelly II
A miniature, structured Kelly silhouette with a top handle and shoulder strap.
Hermès 24/24
A supple body contrasts with a structured flap and turn-lock.