Longchamp
A Heritage Essay

LongchampThe House & Its Designers

Family-owned French maison; the Le Pliage that built an empire.

An Introduction

Longchamp is the rarest thing in French luxury — a 77-year-old family-owned house that built its modern business on a single, foldable, nylon-and-leather tote.

Founded in 1948 by Jean Cassegrain as a leather pipe-covering business in Paris, the maison was transformed by his son Philippe in 1971 and again by his grandson Olivier in the 1990s. The Le Pliage (1993) — a nylon tote that folded into a small square — has now sold over 35 million units.

— Chapter One —

The House

Founded 1948.

Leather pipes.
1948

Leather pipes.

Jean Cassegrain inherited his father's tobacco shop in Paris. The shop sold pipes, including British briar pipes. Cassegrain noticed that the pipe stems were vulnerable to scratching in a customer's pocket and began selling leather pipe covers. Within a year the leather covers were outselling the pipes. He founded Longchamp (named for the Paris racecourse) as a small leather-goods house.

Le Pliage.
1993

Le Pliage.

Philippe Cassegrain (Jean's son) had taken over by the 1980s. The idea for the Le Pliage came from origami — a nylon body with leather handles and a leather flap closure, foldable into a small square the size of a paperback. It launched in 1993 in three sizes and a small range of colours. Within five years it was a global staple, especially in the United States, where it became the de facto uniform of college students.

Designer collaborations.
2006 — present

Designer collaborations.

Sophie Delafontaine (Philippe's daughter, third-generation) took over as artistic director in 2006. Her tenure has expanded the brand into more premium product — the Roseau (2010), the Cavalcade (2018), the leather Brioche bag — and into designer collaborations (Jeremy Scott, Tracey Emin) without dethroning the Le Pliage, which remains the maison's defining piece.

— Chapter Two —

The Designers

1 era of creative direction.

Artistic Director · 2006 — present

Sophie Delafontaine

Third-generation Cassegrain. Sophie has overseen the brand's quiet expansion beyond the Le Pliage — Roseau, Cavalcade, the Brioche — while maintaining its family-owned, design-led identity.

— Chapter Three —

The Bags

10 icons. Each one a scene; each scene a gallery.

Le Pliage — Longchamp
5 photos
View gallery →
Le Pliage alt view
Le Pliage alt view
Le Pliage alt view
Le Pliage alt view
No. 01

Le Pliage

1993 · Philippe Cassegrain

The defining Longchamp. Foldable nylon tote with leather handles and flap. Over 35 million units sold.

Le Pliage Néo — Longchamp
5 photos
View gallery →
Le Pliage Néo alt view
Le Pliage Néo alt view
Le Pliage Néo alt view
Le Pliage Néo alt view
No. 02

Le Pliage Néo

2014 · Sophie Delafontaine

Modern Le Pliage in technical canvas; doesn't fold but more durable.

Roseau — Longchamp
3 photos
View gallery →
Roseau alt view
Roseau alt view
No. 03

Roseau

2010 · Sophie Delafontaine

Top-handle with bamboo Roseau clasp.

Cavalcade — Longchamp
10 photos
View gallery →
Cavalcade alt view
Cavalcade alt view
Cavalcade alt view
Cavalcade alt view
No. 04

Cavalcade

2018 · Sophie Delafontaine

Saddle bag with cavalry-inspired details.

Brioche — Longchamp
4 photos
View gallery →
Brioche alt view
Brioche alt view
Brioche alt view
No. 05

Brioche

2021 · Sophie Delafontaine

Soft puffy bag inspired by the French pastry.

Le Foulonné — Longchamp
9 photos
View gallery →
Le Foulonné alt view
Le Foulonné alt view
Le Foulonné alt view
Le Foulonné alt view
No. 06

Le Foulonné

2010s · Longchamp

Pebbled-leather tote line.

Mailbox — Longchamp
3 photos
View gallery →
Mailbox alt view
Mailbox alt view
No. 07

Mailbox

2022 · Sophie Delafontaine

Structured box bag with letter-slot opening.

Cosmos — Longchamp
2 photos
View gallery →
Cosmos alt view
No. 08

Cosmos

2023 · Sophie Delafontaine

Round shoulder bag with celestial hardware.

3D — Longchamp
6 photos
View gallery →
3D alt view
3D alt view
3D alt view
3D alt view
No. 09

3D

2017 · Longchamp

Geometric panelled tote.

Cuir City — Longchamp
2 photos
View gallery →
Cuir City alt view
No. 10

Cuir City

2010s · Longchamp

Leather city tote.

All Bags · Quick Index

10 at a glance.

Le Pliage
Le Pliage
1993
Le Pliage Néo
Le Pliage Néo
2014
Roseau
Roseau
2010
Cavalcade
Cavalcade
2018
Brioche
Brioche
2021
Le Foulonné
Le Foulonné
2010s
Mailbox
Mailbox
2022
Cosmos
Cosmos
2023
3D
3D
2017
Cuir City
Cuir City
2010s