Maison Margiela
A Heritage Essay

Maison MargielaThe House & Its Designers

Belgian deconstruction, blank labels, four white stitches.

An Introduction

Maison Margiela was founded in 1988 by Martin Margiela — one of the Antwerp Six — as an anti-brand, the most conceptual fashion house in the world. The clothes had no logo. The label was a blank white square attached with four white stitches that showed through the garment. Margiela himself was unphotographable; he gave interviews only by fax.

Martin Margiela retired in 2009. The house — owned by OTB Group since 2002 — was led for five years by Margiela's design team before John Galliano was appointed creative director in 2014. Galliano's tenure has continued the deconstruction tradition while pulling the maison toward couture-level craft.

— Chapter One —

The House

Founded 1988.

The Antwerp Six minus one.
1988

The Antwerp Six minus one.

Martin Margiela was the seventh of the so-called 'Antwerp Six' graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1981 (six of his classmates founded their own labels in London in 1986; he was a year behind and so technically not part of the trip). He launched Maison Margiela in Paris in 1988. His first collection was shown in the conference room of a Paris junior school, with the models walking across a strip of red carpet that was the same colour as the floor underneath, hiding the geometry of the runway.

Anti-brand.
1988 — 2009

Anti-brand.

Margiela's signatures were inversions of fashion's conventions. The label was a blank white square (a 'Numbered Tab' system identified the line). The garments often used recycled materials — old socks remade into sweaters, military trousers cut into skirts. The atelier was famous for its all-white interiors and white-coated technicians. Margiela himself refused to be photographed.

Without Margiela.
2009 — 2014

Without Margiela.

Martin Margiela retired in 2009 — the most famous departure of any fashion designer of his generation. The house, owned by OTB Group, continued under the in-house Margiela design team. Collections shipped, but the brand lost cultural urgency.

John Galliano.
2014 — present

John Galliano.

OTB appointed John Galliano — disgraced and unemployed since his Dior firing in 2011 — as Margiela's creative director in 2014. The choice was incongruous (Galliano: theatrical, baroque; Margiela: silent, anti-brand) but Galliano's two-step embrace of the brand's deconstruction language has produced some of the most discussed couture collections of the 2010s. His Spring 2024 Artisanal (the Cinema collection) became the most-viewed couture show in years.

— Chapter Two —

The Designers

2 eras of creative direction.

Founder · 1988 — 2009

Martin Margiela

Twenty-one years of the most radical anti-fashion thinking in modern couture. Retired 2009; lives in seclusion.

Creative Director · 2014 — present

John Galliano

Galliano's eleven years at Margiela have rehabilitated his reputation. His Spring 2024 Artisanal show (the 'Cinema' collection at the Pont Alexandre III) was one of the most viewed couture moments in social-media history.

Spring 2015 Couture runway look
2 looks
View runway →

Spring 2015 Couture

2 looks · Vogue Runway
Spring 2024 Couture runway look
2 looks
View runway →

Spring 2024 Couture

2 looks · Vogue Runway
— Chapter Three —

The Bags

5 icons. Each one a scene; each scene a gallery.

5AC — Maison Margiela
4 photos
View gallery →
5AC alt view
5AC alt view
5AC alt view
No. 01

5AC

2017 · John Galliano

Defining Galliano-era Margiela bag. Top-handle structured with the iconic four-stitch label.

Glam Slam — Maison Margiela
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 02

Glam Slam

2018 · John Galliano

Puffer-quilted clutch with chain strap.

Snatched — Maison Margiela
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 03

Snatched

2020 · John Galliano

Boxy structured shoulder with metallic clasp.

Tabi Bag — Maison Margiela
3 photos
View gallery →
Tabi Bag alt view
Tabi Bag alt view
No. 04

Tabi Bag

2021 · John Galliano

Translation of the iconic Tabi shoe split-toe shape into a bag.

Soft 5AC — Maison Margiela
7 photos
View gallery →
Soft 5AC alt view
Soft 5AC alt view
Soft 5AC alt view
Soft 5AC alt view
No. 05

Soft 5AC

2019 · John Galliano

Slouchier Glam version of the 5AC.

All Bags · Quick Index

5 at a glance.

5AC
5AC
2017
Glam Slam
Glam Slam
2018
Snatched
Snatched
2020
Tabi Bag
Tabi Bag
2021
Soft 5AC
Soft 5AC
2019