Tod's
A Heritage Essay

Tod'sThe House & Its Designers

The driving-shoe specialists who became a leather-goods house.

An Introduction

Tod's is the Italian leather-goods house that built its identity around a single object — the Gommino driving moccasin (1979), with 133 rubber pebbles on the sole.

Founded by the Della Valle family in the Marche region, the maison has expanded from footwear into leather goods over forty years, with the T Timeless (2020s) and D Bag (1996) as its handbag anchors.

— Chapter One —

The House

Founded 1979 (modern form).

Three generations of cobblers.
1900 — 1970s

Three generations of cobblers.

The Della Valle family had been making shoes in the small town of Casette d'Ete (Marche) since the early twentieth century. Filippo Della Valle ran the business as a small workshop. His son Dorino expanded it. Dorino's son Diego — born 1953 — was the one who turned it into a brand.

The Gommino.
1979

The Gommino.

Diego Della Valle's idea was simple: a soft leather moccasin with 133 rubber 'pebbles' on the sole, designed for driving — the sole flexed against the gas and brake pedals without slipping. He named it Gommino (Italian for 'little rubber drop'). It became the unofficial uniform of Italian businessmen by the late 1980s and a global luxury staple by the 1990s.

Bags.
1996 — present

Bags.

The D Bag, introduced in 1996 (with the D for Princess Diana, who was photographed carrying an early version), was Tod's first major handbag. The T Timeless followed in 2020. Tod's bags have always been positioned as quietly luxurious — minimal logos, premium leather, classic silhouettes — distinct from the maximalist Italian houses.

— Chapter Two —

The Designers

1 era of creative direction.

Creative Director · 2024 — present

Matteo Tamburini

Tamburini, formerly Burberry's head of womenswear, was hired in 2024 as Tod's first dedicated creative director in years. His brief: modernise the brand without losing its quiet-luxury positioning.

— Chapter Three —

The Bags

6 icons. Each one a scene; each scene a gallery.

T Timeless — Tods
2 photos
View gallery →
T Timeless alt view
No. 01

T Timeless

2020 · Tod's

Boxy top-handle with the T-monogram clasp. Modern Tod's anchor.

D Bag — Tods
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 02

D Bag

1996 · Tod's

Originally named for Diana. The maison's first handbag icon.

Wave Bag — Tods
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 03

Wave Bag

2010s · Tod's

Soft hobo with rope-detail wave handles.

Holly — Tods
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 04

Holly

2019 · Tod's

Slouchy double-handle in supple calf leather.

Joy Bag — Tods
4 photos
View gallery →
Joy Bag alt view
Joy Bag alt view
Joy Bag alt view
No. 05

Joy Bag

2023 · Tod's

Compact shoulder with chain-and-leather strap.

Gommino Tote — Tods
1 photo
View gallery →
No. 07

Gommino Tote

2010s · Tod's

Tote trimmed with the Gommino rubber pebbles.

All Bags · Quick Index

6 at a glance.

T Timeless
T Timeless
2020
D Bag
D Bag
1996
Wave Bag
Wave Bag
2010s
Holly
Holly
2019
Joy Bag
Joy Bag
2023
Gommino Tote
Gommino Tote
2010s